WineLife365

Archive for the ‘General Musings’ Category

Diversity.  It’s supposed to be a good thing and not a bad thing, right?  Most of us were taught at a very young age that there are lots of different people, religions and beliefs in the world.  As we grow and mature we learn tolerance, understanding, respect and compassion to appreciate the things and people that are different from us and our own personal experiences.

So, if we were taught that diversity is a good thing, then why is the wine industry so hell bent on pouring one homogenized, “cookie cutter” flavor, and style of wine down our throats?

I recently attended a blind-tasting and sampled about 40 different wines comprised of whites, reds, and sweet wines.  And guess what?  Nearly all of the whites (as a collective group) and all of the reds (as a group) tasted stylistically the same – in a scary sort of way!  No joke.  Only a handful of these wines stood out in the crowd, and it wasn’t just me and my palate that noticed the frightening similarity.  At the end of this tasting, when the identities of these wines were revealed, all of the tasters conveyed similar thoughts.

In defense of all the wines that were poured that particular evening, each one of them could be found across the US for less than $15 and had production numbers that exceeded 10,000 cases per year.  Let’s face it, 40 wines priced under 15 bucks with big production numbers is certainly not enough empirical data to make a proclamation that all wines are beginning to taste the same.  However, if you’re an everyday wine drinker like myself, who spends on average between $10-15 on a bottle of wine, it should be very apparent, “New World” style wines have a strangle-hold on consumers in the world of “inexpensive” wine – and they’re not about to loosen their grip anytime soon.

One can place blame for this often repeated and copied blueprint on the likes of influential critics that prefer their wines overripe, over-oaked, and high in alcohol.  You can even blame California, Australia, South America and others (Europe too) for flooding retailers’ shelves with wines that are separated more by a marketing budget and less by their unique characteristics. 

The bottom line and reality of it all, is that it’s getting harder and harder to tell the difference between two wines because so many of them have been made devoid of the slightest individual personality that gives drinkers a sense of where they came from.

My question is:  Has diversity and geographical nuances, that were once common in wines from different parts of the world, been sentenced to a slow and painful death? 

The Mercy Rule is in effect.

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I don’t know about you, but I will sorely miss two wine journalists that had  a huge impact on my desire to write about wine.  After 12 years and 579 articles written, John Brecher and Dorothy Gaiter, authors of the Wall Street Journal’s popular Friday wine column called “Tastings”, wrote their last column.

I’m not sure if this was a planned retirement by the couple or a forced one, but all I can say about the wine writing couple is that they achieved what so few wine writers and critics ever do:  Making wine accessible, comfortable and fun for readers.  Dottie and John had a remarkable ability to cut through the stuffiness and intimidation that still plagues the wine world, and made their wine experiences very intimate and personal for readers.  I, like so many folks that write about wine, have read numerous books and taken plenty of classes that give one lots of “wine smarts”, but the wonderful writings and warm relationship that came through week after week in their column inspired me to just sit back and simply enjoy wine – not over analyze it.  Their sole purpose was to enlighten people about all the wonderful things about wine without coming across as “Know it Alls”.  I don’t know where the future of wine writing is heading, but I can honestly say that their no nonsense and passionate approach to this topic has left a lasting impression and smile on my face that I will be forever grateful to them for!  

If you never had the opportunity to read their weekly column, I would highly recommend checking out The Wall Street Journal “Guide to Wine” New and Improved which reads like an expanded version of their Friday wine column.

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Rather than replicating a list of the particular wines the large wine publications proclaimed as being the best of 2009, or even rehashing my own personal favorites, I thought I’d provide a different look at the top 10 wines that my palate said, “Got It Right!” in 2009.

1.  Anything But Chardonnay Brotherhood – 2009 proved to be another exciting year for wine drinkers who were looking for something other than Chardonnay.  Riesling, Torrontes, Vinho Verde, and Viognier (to name just a few) “Got it Right” in 2009.

2.  I Prefer My Chardonnay “Naked” – In 2009 we started seeing more Chardonnay producers leaving the trees in the forest and getting “naked” or “unoaked”.  So, before you scratch Chardonnay off of your wine checklist, you may want to look again!

3.  Acidity Is A Good Thing – In 2009, I experienced a lot of terrific white wines that brought the acidity to the party.  The places that rocked me most throughout 2009 were Chile, Portugal and New Zealand.

4.  Italy Is Not Just For Pinot Grigio And Chianti Anymore – Man, if you haven’t experienced an Italian sparkler this year, you’re missing out!

5.  The Wine Treasure Chest Called France – All I can say here is that the French sure know how to make fine white wines, and cheap tasty ones too!  Treasure hunters might want to start digging in the Gascony, Languedoc and Loire Valley aisles.

6.  I Never Met A Red Headed Spaniard That I Didn’t Like – I’m probably a little bit biased on this one, but damn – I had a lot of great Spanish reds in 2009 and Garnacha spoke to me like Rain Man in my ears.

7.  There’s A Lot To Like Down South! – Gadzooks I tell you – I had a love fest with many a Carmenere and Malbec this past year.

8.  California Can Still Smoke’em – Nobody brings the noise like Cali.  I had a few Cabs and red Zins that nearly took me to the moon and back in 2009.  Big, bold and 100% California gold in those hills!

9.  I Like My Wines Shaken Not Stirred – Industry insiders say that most inexpensive blended wines are an afterthought to utilize the leftover grape lots.  Well, sometimes the “leftovers” are better!  I didn’t meet too many a Meritage in 2009 that I didn’t find enjoyable – especially in the under $15 club.  Additionally, the wines created by those wineries who strive to produce Bordeaux-style blends, using only the very best grapes, weren’t too shabby either.

10.  But, I’ve Never Heard Of That Place Or Grape… – In 2009, retailers introduced wine lovers to a few more, far away, and unpronounceable places that are making exciting wines while adding a few new grapes to our growing wine vocabulary.

The question is – Were you too afraid to try any of them?  If you were reluctant or a bit intimidated in 2009, do yourself a favor and taste drive something new in 2010!

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to everyone!

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As wine lovers, we’ve all had those really special and unforgettable moments in time that become ingrained in our minds forever.  These keepsakes could have been a particular bottle of wine, a special trip, a memorable meal or event, or maybe even the time that you made your first wine.  My point is, these very personal and special experiences make us all slow down in that very moment to appreciate and take notice of all the wonderful things and blessings that we have in life.

My personal goal for this website was and still is to share the good, the bad, and sometimes ugly wine encounters that I’ve experienced, and to share them with you in a manner that is enjoyable and relatable to you in your own “WineLife”, so to speak.  For this reason, I wanted to create a place on this website for people just like you to exchange and share your own memorable wine experiences for others to read about.

Earlier this past year, I had a very special wine experience that will forever remain in my memories.

While attending the Jersey Fresh Wine & Food Festival, I had the pleasure of meeting and swapping wine tasting notes with best-selling author Mr. George M. Taber.  You might remember, he was “that American guy” living in France as a reporter and editor for Time Magazine who was asked to cover this silly little wine tasting challenge that was going to take place in Paris between France and a newcomer called California.  The rest, as they say, is history.  He went on to write a best-seller about this monumental day in California wine history called ”Judgement of Paris“.  He’s also written “To Cork or Not to Cork” and most recently released a book entitled “In Search of Bacchus“.

I recently caught up with Mr. Taber to wish him happy holidays and congratulate him on the release of “In Search of Bacchus”.  All that I can tell you about this man is that he’s very down-to–earth and easy to talk to, just like any other wine buddy that you might have, and he’s got a lot of great stories to share.  With that in mind, I asked him if he would kindly share one of his own personal wine-related experiences for the BYOB section of WineLife365.  He graciously agreed and took time out of his schedule to share this wonderful wine moment in his life that I’m sure you’ll enjoy reading just as much as I did.

Without further adieu, the following was written for WineLife365 by Mr. George M. Taber!

While I was researching my book “In Search of Bacchus,” I had a lot of interesting wine/life experiences. But the one I remember most vividly took place more than 30 years ago. It remains burned white hot into my memory.

 

It was sometime between May 1973 and September 1976, when I was working for Time magazine in Paris. Sorry, but I can’t zero in on it closer than that. I had been sent down from Paris to Provence to report on a story the subject of which I can’t even remember. But I can still vividly recall that I wasn’t happy to be there. I don’t know whether I wanted to be back in Paris doing something else or if it was a dull story, which can sometimes happen.

 

Anyway, I dutifully reported on the story in the morning and then had a couple of hours to kill before getting back on the train and returning to Paris. So I decided to have lunch at an outdoor café in the center of the town of Tavel, which is located near the spot where Provence and Languedoc meet. It’s not too far from Avignon, where the Popes who gave their name to Châteauneuf-du-Pape used to reside.

 

Little did I know at the time that Tavel is famous for producing perhaps the best rosé wine in France. It was an early summer day and not too hot, as can often happen in that area at that time of year. So I went to the center of town, picked out a café at random, and plopped myself down at an outside table. I still remember ordering a salad and then asking the waiter what wine he recommended. He naturally and immediately replied that I should order the local Tavel. I doubt I had ever had a bottle of that before, and I can’t remember the exact producer he suggested. But I took his recommendation and then because I was in such a foul mood, I ordered a full bottle, rather than the half that I usually had when I ate alone.

 

When the waiter brought me the bottle, I tasted a sample to make sure it wasn’t corked and found it surprisingly good. Along with a lot of other wine fans, I had always had a prejudice against rosé because it seemed like a waste of a good red wine and ended up as a pudding without a theme, as Winston Churchill once said about another topic. Then the waiter poured me a glass, and I leaned back, looked around at the beautiful little village square, and savored a first glass while waiting for the salad. The sun was gentle and sweet, and it reminded me of the description of the sun in that area in François Sagan’s novel Bonjour Tristesse.

 

The Tavel was a wonderful surprise. It was fresh, fruity, and vibrant. I hate wine descriptions that talk about hints of mint and gobs of cherry, so I won’t bore you with that. It was simply a well-made, well-served, exquisite example of Midi winemaking.

 

In only a few minutes, my anger at being there on an assignment that I didn’t want evaporated under the Provençal sun. The world was again beautiful, and life was once more exciting. When the waiter brought the salad, it was a perfect match for the Tavel.

 

Today I sometimes order a Tavel, if I happen to see it on a menu. Although I always enjoy the wine, I have never been able to repeat the experience of that day in Provence. The memory of that day always remains fresh and returns when I first sip the Tavel.

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Once a year I am compelled, by my desire to share good food and wine with friends, to prepare a four course lunch for 24 people, at a beautiful outdoor venue, out of a small kitchen.  These are friends I go camping with every year.  Putting on a great meal is one of the small ways I can contribute to the camping experience.  Knowing I must manage my time efficiently putting out so many courses, and wanting to enjoy the meal myself along with the guests, I look for recipes that don’t require an inordinate amount of labor, but which will make a stunning visual and taste impression, while making it look like I slaved in the kitchen for much longer than I really did.

Each of these luncheons has been made much more fun and interesting by my recruitment of a winemaker to attend with his wines, building a menu of dishes that pair well with those wines.

In 2007, for the first seated course after hors d’oeuvres, I prepared a chilled cucumber soup garnished with tuna tartare.  It was a big hit with the crowd, paired with a luscious Burgundian styled Chardonnay from the Russian River Valley made by Deerfield Ranch Winery.

The soup is easy, as most of the prep work is handled by a blender.  It can be made the day before and chilled in the refrigerator until serving time.  The tuna tartare just required a bunch of slicing and dicing about an hour before service. 

The color contrast in the soup plates was wonderful.  With two dishes in one, guests can use their spoons to sample each part separately, or in a combined spoonful.  I garnished with all of the optional ingredients listed at the end of the list, making a dazzling dish.  Also for my presentation, I used a cookie cutter to mold the tartare portion into a cylindrical shape centered in the soup bowl, adding the garnishes just after removing the mold and ladling the soup around the tuna tower.

The appetizer that day was shrimp and scallop ceviche, served in martini glasses, paired with a Sauvignon Blanc.  The main course was pheasant risotto, served with a Ladi’s Vineyard Syrah.  Dessert was lemon thyme pannacotta with thinly sliced, fresh macerated Sonoma County peaches, served with a botrytised Semillon-Sauvignon Blanc blend, ‘Gold.’  All the wines were from Deerfield Ranch of Sonoma County.

For some reason, I was invited back to cook lunch again in 2008 and 2009.

Cheers!
Scott 

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The recipe for the Cucumber Soup with Seared Tuna Tartare can be found on the Food & Wine website.  Please note that Scott suggested the following optional items:

• Cilantro and mint leaves, fresh grated ginger, orange zest
• Toasted sesame seeds
• Mix equal parts Wasabi Tobiko Caviar and Extra Virgin Olive Oil, and drizzle over the tartare

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